3.1 Phillip Lim 08秋冬·纽约秀场  43图

NEW YORK, February 6, 2008 – He's a designer who often dismisses his clothes with an offhand, "It's just pretty. It's not trying to be anything." But a few days before his Fall show, it was obvious that Phillip Lim had a lot on his mind—from the tanking economy's effect on both the world at large ...

Alberta Ferretti 08秋冬·米兰秀场  49图

MILAN, February 18, 2008 – Jewel-like color and peacock blues and greens are a story coming out of Milan, and that's where Alberta Ferretti took her Fall collection. What she does, of course, never strays from the pretty—you wouldn't expect a dramatic departure here—but now it's in a slightly dif...

Anna Sui 08秋冬·纽约秀场  55图

NEW YORK, February 6, 2008 – Backstage, Anna Sui ticked off her references: the aesthetic movement, pre-Raphaelites, Tiffany vases, Fortuny pleats, medievalism, Gustav Klimt, and, oh, yes, the American Indians of the Pacific Northwest. A beautiful mess? To some, maybe. But to her fans, watching the...

Calvin Klein 08秋冬·纽约秀场  38图

NEW YORK, February 7, 2008 – In nearly five years at Calvin Klein, Francisco Costa has proven that he's the most precise of designers, and his Fall collection was almost regimental in its discipline. The models were nearly makeup-free, their hair pulled back in severe ponytails, and the clothes wer...

Chanel 08秋冬·巴黎秀场  57图

PARIS, February 29, 2008 – A Chanel carousel fitted out with giant quilted bags, camellias, pearls, boaters, and bows faced the audience as it poured into the Grand Palais for the Fall Ready-to-wear show. It was a fitting metaphor for the timeless turning of the house classics, and for the unstoppa...

Chloé 08秋冬·巴黎秀场  32图

PARIS, March 1, 2008 – Chiffon for winter. It's undeniably a trend out there, but, in spite of climate change, still a bit of an odd one. Paulo Melim Andersson is one of its proponents, and in his case you can kind of see the logic—he's chasing what makes Chloé hot. When Karl Lagerfeld held the d...

Christian Dior 08秋冬·巴黎秀场  61图

PARIS, February 25, 2008 – Imagine Mrs. Robinson in Valley of the Dolls, and you more or less have the measure of Christian Dior for Fall: gigantic back-combed hairdos, equally gigantic eye makeup, and the neat ladylike suits and dresses beloved of Kennedy-era America. It was a trip around what Joh...

D&G 08秋冬·米兰秀场  59图

MILAN, February 18, 2008 – Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana can work a theme like nobody's business, and at their D&G show they went mad for plaid, that cloth beloved of Her Majesty the Queen. There were an array of twinsets over calf-grazing kilts and long blazers topping full skirts in mismatch...

DKNY 08秋冬·纽约秀场  54图

NEW YORK, February 3, 2008 – "Eclectic Glamour," trumpeted the notes at DKNY, where the first showing was so shoulder-to-shoulder packed that you wondered if everyone but you knew that Madonna or Justin Timberlake was giving an impromptu concert. Nope, people were there for the clothes, and there w...

Dolce & Gabbana 08秋冬·米兰秀场  61图

MILAN, February 21, 2008 – Whatever else happens in Milan, you can count on Dolce & Gabbana to put on the glossiest high-production, total-conviction, proper old-school show in town. This season, they hit on a device for merging the feeling for longer lengths with tailoring and "country" fabricatio...

Donna Karan 08秋冬·纽约秀场  46图

NEW YORK, February 8, 2008 – The silk satin bathrobe dress with which Donna Karan opened her Fall show was something of a head-scratcher. This is the designer, after all, who helped women into the boardroom with her famous Seven Easy Pieces collection in the mid-eighties. Why had she now set her si...

Fendi 08秋冬·米兰秀场  45图

MILAN, February 21, 2008 – When Karl Lagerfeld began designing for Fendi—that would be 1965—there were no other furriers (at least in Italy) who had the ambition to put fur at the forefront of fashion innovation. So much has gone around since then that it's almost unimaginable—fur has been "in" ...

Giorgio Armani 08秋冬·米兰秀场  63图

MILAN, February 18, 2008 – Yesterday's Emporio show had the designer exploring his sporty side. But after opening somewhat perplexingly with a male model in a velvet suit, his Giorgio Armani collection today launched off in a different direction entirely—one that felt unapologetically feminine. "F...

Givenchy 08秋冬·巴黎秀场  45图

PARIS, February 27, 2008 – Finally, Riccardo Tisci got up on a runway and did what legions of frustrated editors have been willing him to do for ages: present a collection that put his talent properly and clearly on display for the first time. Not that buyers are disbelievers, or that women haven't...

Gucci 08秋冬·巴黎秀场  36图

MILAN, February 20, 2008 – If you had to brainstorm the quintessential formula for Gucci-ness—the sexy, show-offy core of the brand's proposition— you'd probably come up with something like "rock chick deluxe." Frida Giannini got that feeling across for Fall by staging a raid on the Russian/Cossa...

Hermès 08秋冬·巴黎秀场  57图

PARIS, March 1, 2008 – The decor at Hermès can usually tell you something about the show's theme. Last Spring's wall of spices presaged the Passage to India clothes. This season's Oriental rug indicated Jean Paul Gaultier might be planning for another trip east. But, no....

Louis Vuitton 08秋冬·巴黎秀场  50图

PARIS, March 2, 2008 – The new, punctual, be-suited Marc Jacobs stood backstage after his Louis Vuitton Fall collection and briskly rattled off the need-to-know: "We just worked with shapes. Darts, folds, and pleats. I don't like to use these words because they sound pretentious, but if you like, l...

Marc by Marc Jacobs 08秋冬·纽约秀场  60图

NEW YORK, February 5, 2008 – Marc by Marc Jacobs usually follows the designer's main show by about 18 hours. But with his signature collection scheduled for the last day of New York fashion week, looking at his diffusion line this season felt a bit like reading tea leaves. Does the eighties-ish new...

Miu Miu 08秋冬·巴黎秀场  38图

PARIS, March 2, 2008 – Lace made for a fascinating fetish object at the Prada show in Milan last week. At her little-sister label, Miuccia Prada fixated on, of all things, jockey uniforms. "I wanted to take sport in a new direction," she said afterward. The show began in quite literal fashion with ...

Prada 08秋冬·米兰秀场  43图

MILAN, February 19, 2008 – Miuccia Prada is about to do for the lace industry what Nicolas Ghesquière did for flower printers last season—send the mills into frantic overdrive. After glimpsing a piece of lace in her studio and at first ignoring it, she found the handmade fabric crept up on her, t...

Valentino 08秋冬·巴黎秀场  42图

PARIS, February 28, 2008 – As the cliché goes, Alessandra Facchinetti has big shoes to fill at Valentino. Today she slipped into them with the tact and sensitivity of a young Italian who appreciates the storied heritage of the house, but is quietly resolved to say something to a new generation. "I...

Vera Wang 08秋冬·纽约秀场  47图

NEW YORK, February 7, 2008 – In past seasons Vera Wang has voyaged back in time to czarist Russia or ancient Rome, with the result that her collections sometimes appeared too much like costume. But for Fall she took her color cue from the modernist painter Kees van Dongen, and her strongest influen...

Versace 08秋冬·米兰秀场  56图

MILAN, February 21, 2008 – Finally, at the last gasp of Milan, it fell to Donatella Versace to rush to the rescue of the imminent Sunday-night Academy Awards. And who better, in a week when there was scarcely a floor-sweeping gown on a runway (unless it was made of, er, tweed)? There were no apolog...

Vivienne Westwood 08秋冬·巴黎秀场  58图

PARIS, February 25, 2008 – Dame Vivienne has always covered her clothes with doodles. This season, she went straight to the source, enlisting 7- and 8-year-old students from the Portland School in Nottingham, England, to hand-paint most of the pieces in her new collection. But it wasn't exactly chi...

Y-3 08秋冬·纽约秀场  64图

NEW YORK, February 3, 2008 – As New York fashion week begins, don't you find yourself wondering what the creative minds at Y-3 will bring us next?...

Yves Saint Laurent 08秋冬·巴黎秀场  39图

PARIS, February 28, 2008 – They looked like an army of futuristic female automata, marching out in identical black-bowl wigs and black lipstick, some with their eyes blanked out by narrow slivers of wraparound sunglasses. The clothes they wore were equally uncompromising: stark planes of tweed, fel...